We have just completed a wonderful week in Las Vegas, and have slightly altered our plans. We are now in Bakersfield, CA for a few days before we continue on to Santa Cruz, CA for the Winter hiatus to our journey. Originally, after the week in Las Vegas, we had planned to make the trip to Santa Cruz in several hops, stopping at Wal-Marts along the way. But after reviewing the schedule and the map, we decided it would make more sense to press on and make our way to Bakersfield in a single day, and then stop at the Bakersfield RV resort (an exceptional park) for some R&R. That's where we now are, and it's time to get back into blogging and bring everyone up to date with what's been happening the past couple of weeks after leaving Colorado. - including a week in Kanab, UT visiting some wonderful national parks, followed by a week in Las Vegas.
This edition of our blog will cover our time in Southern Utah and Northern Arizona. We will follow up with another blog posting to cover the Nevada portion of our journey. First, however, just a bit of nostalgia and reflection - tinged with just a bit of melancholy.
August 31 was a beautiful day in southern Utah, and it marked an important event in our Bounder Across America tour. As we visited Bryce Canyon National Park, we were both just a bit saddened to realize that this was to be our last real 'sight-seeing' excursion for awhile. But the truth is, we are totally satisfied by all that we have seen, and after the three parks, we were extremely excited to embark on the next phase of our journey - and a visit with family in Las Vegas; followed by an extended family time in Santa Cruz.
You may be asking yourself: "Where the heck is Kanab, UT... and why spend a week in Kanab?" We chose Kanab as a place to stay for six nights because of it's proximity to 3 of Utah's five National Parks. And this proved to be an excellent choice. Kanab, at the center of what is called the 'Golden Circle', is within seventy miles of each of these parks.
Although not a large city by any measure, Kanab boasts most amenities required by travelers, including one of the finer restaurants we've eaten at during our trip. The Rocking V, in the center of town along the main street, doesn't look to be particularly 'fine' from the outside (and the name doesn't actually conjure up visions of fine dining), but the inside is 'southwestern chic' and the fare on offer is definitely a cut above. We had the opportunity to meet the owner and get the story of how the restaurant came to be, and because it in some ways paralleled our own 'story', we were intrigued. Victor and his wife were both working for a network affiliate TV station in Dallas when they decided they were ready for a change. He was a cameraman and she was a news anchor. With no real ties to Kanab other than a visit here years ago, they decided that the town had possibilities, and needed a better class of restaurant. The Rocking V (opened nine years ago) was their solution for the town as well as for their lives. After a great meal, we're happy they made the choice.
Our stay in Kanab was at the Kanab RV Corral - another good choice. We had the opportunity, during our week there, to see the other RV parks in the area, and there's little doubt that the RV Corral is the best of the lot. The park is neat and clean; offers full hook-ups - including good Wi-Fi and a very nice pool (but no cable); and the owners demonstrate the attention to details that have not always been present at other parks where we've stayed. We can heartily recommend Kanab RV Corral for anyone considering a visit to the three National parks - Zion, Grand Canyon and Bryce Canyon. And furthermore, we would also highly recommend that anyone coming to the Southwest definitely consider visiting these parks.
(Just a note here about a curiosity we noticed in small Utah and Arizona towns while making our way to the national parks. On several occasions, as we drove down the towns' main streets, there was a police car conspicuously parked along the curb, with a figure in the driver seat. On closer inspection, we could see that the 'driver' was actually a mannequin, and that no live person was to be found. We don't know what value this information might have for you, but we were highly amused by the sight of mannequin manned police cruisers. It seems that small towns are cutting back on their police budget - and hiring dummies!!)
The national parks we visited all center around the most dramatic of the many canyons that make up the landscape of this area of the country. But don't imagine for a minute that visiting three canyons in a single week is in any way repetitive. Each of the three that we visited offer unique insights into the topography of the area, as well as three different perspectives on some of the most gorgeous scenery available to tourists anywhere. The visits to these parks would be worthwhile just for the spectacular drives from Kanab in order to get to each of them. But it would be a shame, indeed, to make the drive without spending at least a day at each of these national treasures.
(Just a note here about entrance fees to National Parks. We have found that 'Senior Citizen' status is a bit of a double-edged-sword. After all, getting older isn't exactly always a treat!! But relative to entrance into the many United States National parks, there is a definite perk to arriving at 'The Golden Years'. The National Park Service offers a 'Senior Pass' to anyone who is 62 years of age or older. For a one time fee of $10, seniors are granted free admission into all US National Parks, National Monuments, and other such properties. That's right. It's $10 - and is good for the person named, and includes spouse, for the rest of your life! So there is at least one advantage to aging. So far on our Bounder Across America tour we've visited numerous National Parks. Just this past week, visiting the parks in Utah, the Senior Pass saved us $75. Not a bad deal!! One further note. Only US citizens can benefit from this opportunity.)
Zion National Park was the first that we visited. We first waited a day after arriving in Kanab to begin our sightseeing because Glen's foot was still too swollen for wearing a shoe comfortably, and Donna came down with a nagging cold and hacking cough. Nevertheless, by the time that Thursday rolled around, we were chomping at the bit. And so Glen stuffed his foot into a 'Croc' (the loosest shoe he owns), Donna packed a stash of throat lozenges, and we headed to Zion National Park - by way of Pipe Springs National Monument, where we had a wonderful chat with a native American - Hopi - park ranger; and also Washington City, UT - where we could pick up some needed supplies. (Although Kanab is a pleasant town, it is nevertheless quite small. The nearest full service town, which includes department stores, is nearly seventy miles distant.) Driving to Washington City, UT, we passed through an odd place - Colorado City; which is actually just across the border in Arizona. This name (Colorado City) struck a chord for Glen, in relation to the FLDS (Fundamentalist Latter Day Saints) church - which has been in the news recently concerning the FLDS controversy in Texas. Although there were no obvious church members walking the streets (noticeable by the long dresses and oddly old-fashioned hair styles worn by the women) the housing developments, visible from the highway, had a strangely unfinished look to them. (We have since learned that in Arizona, real estate taxes are not fully collected until a property is completely built; and that FLDS communities seem to favor unfinished buildings - which sometimes stay this way for years, even though homeowners are actually in residence.) It wasn't until we arrived at the Wal-Mart in Washington City that we saw our first obvious FLDS community members. Without being too judgmental, let us just say that these fundamentalist believers appear more than a bit out of place in a Wal-Mart! (Multiple women to a single man; and children who bear an uncanny resemblance to each other!)
In any event, after the brief shopping detour, we arrived at Zion National Park. The park is the oldest of Utah's national parks, and as such, the infrastructure was never meant to handle the hordes of modern tourists who flock to this area of the country in Summer to view the amazing canyon. The National Park Service has come up with an ingenious approach to this problem, and we found their solution to be both practical and enjoyable. The park offers fifteen shuttle buses that operate from 6am until 11pm during the tourist season, all moving in an orderly fashion throughout the park, each making stops at the nine 'viewing locations' along the park's main road. During the peak season, automobiles are not allowed to drive this path, but this was in no way an inconvenience. The shuttles pass each stop about once every 5-6 minutes, and these stops are all within a short walk to all of the park's major attractions. (As mentioned earlier, each of the three 'canyon' parks we visited have a different perspective. Zion's perspective is from the bottom of the canyon.) The visitor roams along the narrow floor of the canyon, which for the most part follows the path of the Virgin river - the waterway that formed Zion Canyon. The views looking 'up' are spectacular. There is even an opportunity, at one of the shuttle stops along the way, to step into the river and wade in an area where the rapids are somewhat tamed. As the day we visited approached 100 degrees, the chance to cool our tootsies in the 60 degree water was welcome. It should also be noted that this opportunity to actually get into the river changes the whole experience of the park from one of 'observer' - merely being in the park; to one of 'participant' - actually being part of the park. Maybe this seems a subtlety, but we both found that it greatly enhanced our experience of Zion National Park. A Utah State Highway travels through the park, and we would strongly encourage any visitor to not just see the park from the main park road, but to travel the length of Hwy 9 through the park and take the 'long way' back to Kanab. The views outside the park and along the way are nearly as wonderful as those seen from the main park road.
On Friday we visited Grand Canyon National Park. The Grand Canyon has two major viewing aspects - The South Rim and The North Rim. (There is also a West rim, where the much touted 'glass' bridge is located.) The South Rim of the Grand Canyon is by far the greatest tourist destination, and offers many more tourist amenities than the North Rim. But Glen's memory of this marvelous canyon suggested that if we could only make a single stop, we should visit the North Rim. We both agree that, for us at least - this was a good choice.
(Glen's reason for preferring the North Rim is quite simple, really. Although both sides of the canyon offer spectacular views of the canyon, there are a few major differences. The North Rim rises a full thousand feet above the South Rim. This allows for a less arid and cooler climate. The North Rim averages about 10 degrees cooler than the South Rim, and also offers a relatively lush entrance to the canyon, with beautiful green meadows dotted with towering pines; a contrast to the South Rim which is more desert-like - hot and dry. But perhaps the most significant difference between the two is the viewing perspective. Unlike Zion Canyon, where the visitor witnesses the grandeur from within the floor within the canyon, most tourists will see the Grand Canyon from the upper rim. And because the South Rim is a thousand feet lower in elevation, the canyon is visible for quite a distance along the approach. The North Rim, however - being much higher - hides the vista view of the canyon until the visitor is right at the edge. This makes the North Rim one of the greatest 'optical illusions' on Earth. You are not even aware that the canyon exists until you take that last step, and suddenly the land drops away right in front of you.)
There are numerous viewing points where the sightseer can step out of his/her automobile and see different aspects of The Grand Canyon. We chose one of these as a stop for lunch. With the canyon spread out in front of us, we had a magnificent view across the ten miles to the South rim, and as far left and right as the eye could see.
(Now is probably a good time to mention one of the side benefits of visiting our national parks. Many interesting tourists from around the world come to the US to see our natural national wonders. Just a little bit of friendliness, shown to these visitors, can result in interesting conversations which perhaps might spark a friendship. Just during the brief time we lunched in Grand Canyon National Park, we had the opportunity to meet, and exchange e-mail addresses with) several fascinating folks. Most often, simply offering to take a photo of a couple with their own camera - instead of their being limited to single person shots - can be enough to strike up a conversation. At The Grand Canyon we met an Indian couple on their honeymoon, who were happy for the joint photo; a family - mom, dad and daughter - from Rome who stopped and chatted for awhile; a guy from Derbyshire in England who visits the US at least four times each year; and a couple from New Zealand - both widowed - who had met on the internet. He, from the South island, owned a vineyard; and she, from the South island, had lived in England for many years. We have no doubt that some of these people, along with others we have met, will be future correspondents long after this journey fades from our minds.)
After leaving The Grand Canyon it seemed logical to make a slight detour and circle back to Kanab by way of Glen Canyon and the stately Glen Canyon Dam. Glen (our 'Glen', and not the canyon or the dam :)) ) is always fascinated by these man-made wonders - in addition to the natural wonders of the area. And so a stop at the dam made for a beautiful view while enjoying a snack before returning to Kanab.
Saturday left only Bryce Canyon National Park to explore. As with each of the other national parks and canyons we visited, the drive to the park is nearly as scenic as the park itself. On the way, the visitor passes through Red Canyon, which displays such deep colors it's almost unrealistic looking. Not nearly so steep nor wide as the other canyons in the state parks, Red Canyon offers a more intimate view for the traveler along winding and climbing public roads.
Bryce Canyon, like The Grand Canyon, is not easily visible from the road that winds its way through the park. But there are a dozen pull-off viewing points that offer a variety of spectacular vistas, which are unlike those of either of the other two canyons we visited. Bryce Canyon sports a much greater variety of colors; and exhibits much more dramatic erosion than the other two canyons. One result of this erosion are 'hoodoos' - the signature attraction for Bryce Canyon. These hoodoos are statuesque monoliths that seem to rise out of the canyon walls and floor, often looking like giant stalactites. Occasionally these hoodoos take on a more sculpted appearance - as though they have been carved by human hands. An assortment of natural bridges and arches add to the visual beauty of the canyon. Each of the scenic viewing points is worth a stop, and they offer a variety of different geological formations and colors. These range from canyon openings that lead to lush pine forest, to mini-canyons appearing as natural amphitheatres. One particularly appealing facet to Bryce Canyon is a mile and a half pathway that leads from the rim of the canyon, down deep into one of these amphitheatres. The walk, although quite steep and narrow, appears to be navigable by most vigorous hikers who want to explore beyond the normal 'tourist' pathways in the park. (We elected to leave this adventure to younger hikers.)
After much discussion, it has been difficult to decide which of these magnificent parks is our favorite. At first thought, it might seem that one would become tired, or even jaded, by visiting three seemingly similar attraction in less than a week; but if one thinks in such a way... one would be very wrong. Although the three parks all offer canyon attractions, they are no more similar than other, similar, 'like-named' attractions. (When we lived in England, we never tired of visiting the many Gothic cathedrals that dot the landscape of Europe. Zion Canyon, The Grand Canyon, and Bryce Canyon are America's great cathedrals.) Although these canyons share a similar theme and common origins, they have each evolved into unique and fascinating attractions.
(So that we don't leave you with the impression that we are undecided about which was 'best', we'll tell you that Donna's favorite is Bryce Canyon - for the beautiful variety of colors and formations that it presents. Glen favors The Grand Canyon - based on its sheer scope and magisterial presence. But truthfully, neither of us can really favor one to any great extent over the others. In total, these marvels of the modern world offer such a variety of curiosities and wonders that we are just happy to have seen them all.)
Now we hope you have enjoyed joining us in our travels through three of America's great national parks; and we hope you also enjoy visiting Donna's Picasa photo album at:
And now... just a preview of our Las Vegas visit.
From Kanab, on September 1 we headed to Las Vegas, a place we've visited numerous times in the past. We were looking forward to seeing the changes that have occurred in the city since our last visit; but what we were mostly looking forward to is seeing family members who met us in Las Vegas for a mini family reunion. Monday Glen's brother Dale and his partner Cheryl flew in. Tuesday Glen's sister Kathy and husband Al, along with nephew Steve and his wife Dolly arrived. And on Wednesday, son Glen and wife Velvet arrived with grandson Evan. On Wednesday evening we had dinner together to celebrate a variety of family milestones - including Donna & Glen's 41st Wedding Anniversary (Sep 2): Dale's Birthday (Sep 2); Al's Birthday (August 21); and Evan's 4th Birthday (August 6). We'll cover the festivities in the next posting to our blog... but for now, we'll just have to wait until that edition of our Bounder Across America blog post.
Until the next time, drop us a comment and say 'Hello'!
Donna & Glen
